Better with Buttermilk
Check out this bread recipe from Damon Lee Fowler to see how buttermilk makes wonderfully tender and tasty baked goods. And below it is Virginia Willis’ reduced-fat version of the Italian classic custard panna cotta and Jean Anderson’s pineapple buttermilk sherbet.
Mama’s Buttermilk Bread
From Damon Lee Fowler’s New Southern Baking.
“This is my mother’s all-purpose yeast dough that she uses for practically all her bread—loaves, rolls, and whole wheat bread,” Fowler wrote. “It’s standard fare for Thanksgiving and Christmas at home, and Mama frequently makes it to give away to a shut-in, ailing, or grieving neighbor. Buttermilk makes a tender, sweet-tasting bread that keeps well, and even after it has begun to go a little stale, still makes terrific toast. Mama bakes her bread both in small loaf pans and cut into biscuit-like rolls, but it is her small, neat loaves that say home and love best for me. If you want larger loaves, divide the dough into thirds and bake in 9-inch loaf pans.”
2 pounds (about 7 cups) unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups buttermilk
½ cup water
4 tablespoons unsalted butter or oil
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
1. Reserve 1 cup of flour to use during the kneading. Whisk or sift together the remaining (6 cups) flour, sugar, soda, and salt.
2. Heat the milk, water, and butter or oil until just warm (110 degrees) and stir until the butter is melted. Let it cool slightly and dissolve the yeast in it. Proof for 10 minutes, then make well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in the liquid. Work it together into a soft, cohesive dough. Lightly sprinkle a work surface with some of the reserved flour and turn the dough out onto it. Knead about 8 minutes, adding the reserved flour as needed, until the dough is elastic and smooth.
2. Clean the mixing bowl and return the dough to it, cover with double-folded damp towel or plastic wrap, and let rise in a draft free spot until doubled, about 4 hours, or lightly oil the bowl before putting the dough in, cover with plastic wrap, let it rise in the refrigerator overnight or for at least 8 hours, keeping it refrigerated until you are ready for the final shaping and rising.
3. Lightly grease four small (7½-by-2¼-inch) loaf pans with butter or olive oil. Punch the dough down and lightly knead for about 1 minute. Divide it into quarters, shape each one into an oblong loaf, and put them into the greased pans. Cover with a double-folded damp towel and let rise in a warm spot until the loaves are doubled and clearing the tops of the pans, about 1 to 1½ hours.
4. Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Uncover the bread and bake for 20 minutes in the center of the oven, then increase the oven temperature to 400 degrees. and continue baking until the loaves are well-browned and hollow-sounding when tapped, about 15 minutes longer. Turn the bread out of the pans and cool it on wire racks.
Makes 4 small (7-inch) loaves, 3 9-inch loaves, or about 3 dozen rolls.
Variation — Buttermilk Rolls or Yeast Biscuits: This dough can be cut or shaped into rolls using any shape you like. Mama cuts them into simple yeast biscuits: Roll the dough out about ¼-inch thick and cut with a biscuit cutter and place the biscuits on a greased baking sheet, spacing them a little apart for separate rolls or put them into a round pan, slightly touching one another. Cover with a damp linen towel and let rise until doubled, then bake at 450 degrees. until browned, about 12 to 15 minutes. For pocket-book rolls, press them firmly down the center with a knife, fold over, and place on a lightly greased baking sheet, not touching, cover, let rise, and then bake as above. For cloverleaf rolls, flour your hands, pinch off 1-inch lumps of dough, and roll them into tight smooth balls. Lightly butter 12-well standard muffin tins and put three balls per well. Cover, let rise, and bake as above.
Variation — Whole-Wheat Buttermilk Bread: Substitute from 1 to 3 cups of whole-wheat flour for an equal amount of regular flour. Most whole-wheat flour tends to be a little on the thirsty side: you may need a little more liquid for the dough, so have about a quarter of a cup of room temperature water close at hand as you mix the dough, so that you can add a little at a time as the dough needs it.
Buttermilk Panna Cotta With Blackberry Coulis
Recipe adapted from Virginia Willis. Note that this is best made a day ahead because it requires at least 6 hours of chilling time.
2 tablespoons water
1 1/4-ounce envelope unflavored gelatin
1 cup heavy cream
8 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided use
2 cups whole-fat buttermilk
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 pint blackberries, divided use
1 tablespoon Chambord, optional (or water)
Pinch of salt
Mint sprigs for garnish
1. Put 2 tablespoons of water into small bowl; sprinkle in unflavored gelatin. Let stand until gelatin softens, about 10 minutes.
2. Combine heavy cream and 7 tablespoons of the sugar in heavy medium saucepan. Stir over medium heat until sugar dissolves and mixture is hot but not boiling. Remove from heat; add gelatin mixture and stir until gelatin is completely dissolved and mixture is smooth. Transfer to a medium bowl and place over a bowl of ice water. Stir constantly to cool, 5 to 7 minutes. Do not allow the gelatin to congeal.
3. Stir the buttermilk and vanilla extract into the cooled cream mixture. Pour mixture into a 4-cup measuring cup or other container with a spout for easy pouring. Divide mixture among six ¾-cup custard cups or ramekins. Refrigerate until panna cotta is set, at least 6 hours and up to 1 day.
4. Meanwhile, in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment, puree half the blackberries, remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and Chambord (or water) with a pinch of salt until smooth. Strain through a fine mesh sieve to remove the seeds; set aside until ready to serve.
5. Run a thin, sharp knife around sides of each panna cotta to loosen. One at a time, place bottom of each custard cup in 1 inch of hot water for 30 to 45 seconds; immediately invert custard cup onto a serving plate. Using both hands, firmly grasp custard cup and plate together, shaking gently and allowing panna cotta to settle onto plate. Spoon reserved coulis around the panna cotta; garnish with remaining blackberries and mint. Serve immediately.
Makes 6 servings.
Quick Pineapple Sherbet
Recipe from Jean Anderson.
2 cups buttermilk, fat-free, if you like
2/3 cup sugar
1 can (8.5 ounces) crushed pineapple, with its juice
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
½ teaspoon almond extract
Pinch salt
Combine all ingredients, pour into a refrigerator ice cube tray (one with removal divider), and freeze until firm. Let soften slightly before serving.
Makes 4 servings.
