Italian Comfort
Chef Frank Stitt of Birmingham, Ala., gave a great demo and talk at Bookmarks festival last weekend.
One of the things that struck me as he talked was how simple and comforting much of his Italian food is.
Take the capellini gratin (pictured above courtesy of Artisan books). It’s basically pasta, cream and some cheese—not too different from good old macaroni and cheese.
If you missed my Sept. 9 story on Stitt, which includes the capellini recipe, click here.
In the recipe below, Stitt shows how a simple marinade and a quality ingredient, in this case very fresh fish, make a wonderful side dish or light entree.
If using tuna, I’d suggest cutting it a bit thicker. That will help overcooking, to keep the tuna rare.
This marinade is quite versatile. Note how many ingredients are optional. Caper berries are larger, more mature parts of the same plant that produces capers. If caper berries aren’t available, be sure to add the capers, and maybe even a few more than the 1 tablespoon called for in the recipe.
I used a very similar marinade without capers last weekend for some chopped cherry tomatoes and put the mixture over some toasted slices of bread for a delicious crostini appetizer, especially with a smear of goat cheese added to the bread. It became a twist on the tomato tapenade crostini in Stitt’s book.
Day Boat Fish with Caper Berries and Olive Oil
Recipe adapted from Frank Stitt’s Bottega Favorita. This can be an appetizer, or possibly with an increased portion size, a light lunch.
1/2 pound firm fish, such as mackerel, triggerfish, wahoo or tuna, cut into 4 very thin slices or medallions
1/3 to 1/2 cup fruity but delicate extra-virgin olive oil
Grated zest of 1 lemon
1/4 cup caper berries, rinsed
1 tablespoon salt-packed capers, rinsed (optional)
2 to 3 marjoram or thyme sprigs, leaves only
1 jalapeno, seeds and membranes removed, thinly sliced (optional)
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced (optional)
A handful of arugula leaves
Lemon Wedges
1. Prepare a hot fire, or heat a pan over high heat on the stove. Bring the fish to room temperature.
2. Season fish with salt and pepper. Drizzle with a little olive oil. Place in pan or on hottest part of grill and cook just until the edges begin to turn opaque, about 1 minute. Turn and cook just until cooked through. (If using tuna, don’t cook it all the way; just sear each side briefly so the tuna remains rare.)
3. Remove the fish from the heat and place in a gratin dish. Add lemon zest, caper berries, capers if using, marjoram or thyme, and jalapeno and garlic if using. Add enough olive oil to almost cover the fish. Marinate at room temperature at least 20 minutes, or cover and refrigerate up to 24 hours (and bring to room temperature before serving).
4. Serve directly from the gratin dish, with a garnish of arugula and lemon wedges.
Makes 4 servings.
