NC’s Best, Part II
A couple of weeks ago, I mentioned how the James Beard Awards was considering several N.C. chefs for its annual awards.
Well, the nominees were announced March 23 and Bill Smith, the chef of Crook’s Corner iin Chapel Hill, s now an official nominee for Best Chef of the Southeast.
Smith is one down-to-earth guy who had to work hard to follow in the footsteps of Crook’s founding chef, the legendary Bill Neal, who died in 1991.
Smith likes pretty simple food. Maybe too simple for the folks at James Beard, but we’ll see.
And he most definitely cooks Southern, at least most of the time.
Here’s his recipe for banana pudding, which he made for me in 2005, when I wrote about his first cookbook, Seasoned in the South.
Really Good Banana Pudding
Recipe adapted from Seasoned in the South. Smith uses Nabisco Nilla Wafers for this recipe. He said he got the idea for the custard from Rose Levy Berenbaum, the author of The Pie and Pastry Bible and other cookbooks.
8 cups (2 quarts) half-and-half, divided use
1 vanilla bean, split
3/4 cup cornstarch
8 large eggs
2 cups sugar
1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter
1 box natural vanilla wafers
5 pounds ripe bananas
Meringue
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups egg whites
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar
1 3/4 cups sugar, divided use
1. Scald 61/2 cups of the half-and-half with the split vanilla bean in a heavy-bottomed pot until it just steams and begins to form a skin, about 5 minutes, over medium-high heat. Do not boil. Meanwhile, beat the cornstarch into the remaining 11/2 cups half-and-half to dissolve it, then beat in the eggs. Whisk the hot half-and-half into the egg mixture in a slow stream. Strain all this back into the heavy-bottomed pot. Return the vanilla bean to the pot.
2. Cook mixture over medium-high heat, stirring constantly. In 3 to 5 minutes, the custard will begin to thicken and to tug at the whisk. Continue to stir for a few minutes more, being sure to move the whisk over the entire bottom of the pot. When the surface begins to steam a little, gradually stir in the sugar. Be careful, because this will make the custard more likely to burn on the bottom.
3. Remove pot from heat and beat in the butter 2 tablespoons at a time. Stir constantly so that the butter is absorbed before it separates. This will temporarily thin the custard. Discard the vanilla bean.
4. Pour a cup of the hot custard into an 8-by-10-by-3-inch casserole dish. Line the bottom and sides with vanilla wafers. Slice bananas over the cookies, then layer any remaining cookies over the bananas. Gently fill the casserole with the rest of the custard.
5. While the custard is settling, preheat the oven to 300 degrees and make the meringue. Put the vinegar and salt in a mixing bowl. Swirl the boil around and dump it out over the sink. The vinegar and salt that clings to the bowl will be the right amount. Add the egg whites and begin beating with a mixer at medium speed. Add the cream of tartar. Increase the mixer speed a bit, and drizzle in 11/2 cups of the sugar. When the sugar is absorbed, increase the speed to high and beat until stiff peaks form.
6. Spread the meringue over the top of the custard with a spatula, making lots of dramatic swirls and curlicues. Sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup sugar evenly over the top. Bake for 30 minutes, checking from time to time for browning. When it begins to brown, turn up the heat to 325 degrees and cook 10 minutes more or until the points are toasty. Serve hot, warm or cold - this can be served at once or day-old.
Makes 10 or more servings.
