Quality at the Right Price

The other day I tasted a bottle of the newly released 2006 Robert Mondavi 2006 Napa Valley Chardonnay.

It’s a good wine. It has luscious tropical aromas, with some peach in there, too. In the mouth, the rich fruit is well-integrated with moderate oak, and the fruit and oak mingle all through the finish.

It’s a little lush, but a nice bottle. Maybe not 90 points on a 100-point scale but close. Say 88.

Still, I couldn’t help thinking that I wish it costs less. The suggested retail is 20 bucks. Not outrageous, and I’ve had worse wines that cost more. Still, it’s not a price I shell out for easily. Not at my salary.

The week before, I tasted a much cheaper grocery-store wine, the 2007 Blackstone Monterey County Chardonnay, which sells for $12.

This one has a toasty aroma with hints of apple. In contrast to the Mondavi, it’s much less fruity, but does have some slightly tart apple flavor, and a decent balance. It’s not nearly as distinctive as the Mondavi. In fact, it isn’t complex at all, but it is well-made. It’s also a bit more food-friendly than the rich Mondavi chard.

The Blackstone would make a good party wine — versatile, inexpensive, easy to drink. It’s not a 90-point wine, either. It’s not even an 88. I’d say it’s maybe an 85.

I hadn’t given the Blackstone much more thought until I tasted the Mondavi. Comparing the prices, the Blackstone started to seem more attractive.

Here’s a rundown of how I typically look at price and quality in wines.

$12 and under: A 90-pointer would be a rare steal. An 82 to 85 is satisfactory: decently made, uncomplicated, easy to drink.

$12 to $15: A 90-pointer is a darn fine deal, case-worthy. Look for 86 to 89 scores as well worth the money: well-made, nicely balanced, with good character.

$16 to $20: A 90-point wine should be expected (though it too often is not the case): Well-made, well-balanced with complex character.
$20 and up: Don’t bother unless it’s a 90-plus wine: Well-made, perfectly balanced with so much character that practically every sip brings a new appreciation.

Tasted any good values lately? Please share!

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By Michael Hastings on 11/11/2008 (11:21 am)

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Michael Hastings is the Food Editor for the Winston-Salem Journal.

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