Salmon, Bathed in a Buttery Sea of Verbiage
Menus fascinate me. Once upon a time, when I worked in Pennsylvania, there was a restaurant (far too expensive for me to ever really eat there) that actually had gilded verbs like “bathed” on it. Yes, they were describing food, not writing a romance novel. An editor has gotten to their menu, though - I looked online, and my, have things become more restrained.
Here, Noble’s Grille’s newish menu takes things the opposite direction; here, much of the menu’s built on the a la carte concept, and you’re given a chance to assemble your own meal from proteins, vegetables, starches and the like. The description is so spare - “scallops” - that I’ve heard confused diners turn to their waiters because they had no idea how those things were prepared. Like me, some people make their dining decisions based on the trimmings - interesting sauces and techniques, or sides.
A few weeks ago, I noticed Milner’s lunch menu. This time it’s the categories that caught my eye. Sandwiches have become simply “hand,“ while salads are “cold,“ appetizers “table” and soups are “spoon.“ It’s clever, but almost too self-consciously so. As I read the menu, I’m thinking more about those categories than the food, and I don’t think any chef wants that.
