Nobody puts cauliflower in the corner
If you read today’s review, you’ll see that one of my favorite things at Hutch & Harris Pub, a new downtown restaurant, is a humble little crock of cauliflower. Oh yum. I get hungry thinking about it now. It’s not complicated, it’s not fancy, and it’s certainly not made with pricy ingredients, but it’s tasty. Hutch & Harris’ kitchen steams it, then mashes it with butter and minced parsley.
At the Print Works Bistro in Greensboro, you can order a side of Brussels sprouts (along with lentils and potatoes dauphinoise on its highly Frenchified menu). I haven’t had them yet, but I’m eager to try them. This winter, I got more interested in Brussels sprouts than ever before. Oh, if my 8-year-old self could read this, she’d be aghast. I liked spinach then, and broccoli - with cheese, and even then, I pretty much refused to eat anything but the bushy, flowery tops. I hated the stems. I wouldn’t have touched Brussels sprouts with a ten-foot pole. I’m glad my taste buds grew up.
Eating seasonally means eating what’s available. At in places where there’s winter - including North Carolina - that means cold weather vegetables that are also somewhat strongly flavored. Assertive and hearty, they are the winter coats of the produce world. I count Brussels sprouts in that group, as well as cauliflower, cabbage and kale. They happen to be good for you, but braised with some good bacon, or caramelized and sprinkled with Gruyere or Gouda, these vegetables are delicious, too, and certainly more interesting sides than the usual green beans and mashed potatoes. Make no mistake, I’m not talking about cauliflower with Velveeta cheese sauce. If you treat them right, vegetables will return the favor.
That said, I wonder how I’ll feel if those vegetables remain on those menus come July. Why take up space when it’s tomato time?
